Schiaparelli’s FW 2019/20 show was announced with a fingerprint-shaped logo while the collection itself is a reflection of the inner world of the house’s new art director Daniel Roseberry.
A table was put in the middle of the catwalk. The designer was sitting at the table deep in his thoughts and music. Models dressed in fantastic outfits that follow the house’s style appeared in the spotlight around the table and faded out walking past it.
The collection may be divided into three parts: graphic, — with models clad in calm beige lacework and silk accented with gemstones, rhinestones, and beads — flowery, — with bright colours and embroidery referencing the house’s iconic collections — and flamboyant, where models look like birds of paradise, fish, flowers, and clouds. Fabric compositions flow around the models. Daniel Roseberry pays homage to Schiaparelli traditions by designing a bead-studded boa and a ladybird-shaped bra for a red dress. The new collection is not as grotesque and elusive as other lines designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, however, there are many flowers that have become an inseparable part of the brand on top of beige lacework, bright capes, and silhouettes. Every ensemble was complemented by large and often asymmetrical earrings with gems. Another highlight of the collection was the models’ lips that were glossed and studded with rhinestones.
The music stopped, and the fairy tale characters faded away from the catwalk. The designer grabbed his rucksack and walked off to search new inspiration.
Written by Polina Vorobyova
Translated by Tony Savosin