Gem cats, Grand Palais, and the house’s first properly own gemstone.
Vendôme Square is one of the most iconic places in Paris which has inspired French artists for several centuries. Le Roi Soleil loved going for a walk here; this is where Chpoin and George Sand used to live, and finally Coco Chanel designed the famous Chanel №5 flask after the shape of the square. The new Paris, vu du 26 collection is dedicated to number 26 in Vendôme Square. The Boucheron mansion opened after it had been shut down in late 2018. Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne got inspired by its history.
Golden frames and chandeliers inspired the house to create Oriental-style necklaces. The staircase was referenced in Boucheron’s first ever own gemstone which became the central piece of the necklace finished with diamonds and black onyx. The name of Gerard Boucheron’s beloved cat Vladimir quite often appears in the collection. The black cat was the house mascot in mid XX century. In 2019 two types of large cat-shaped rings with black sapphires, emeralds, transparent diamonds, and green tourmalines were dedicated to the cat. In order to make sure the jewels are worn as often as possible the house designed a black glazed box finished with mother-of-pearl and wood. It contains 26 broches, homage to number 26 in Vendôme Square.
If you were to step out of number 26 in Vendôme Square the first thing you would see is Vendôme column and square-shaped cobblestone that shines every time it rains in Paris. The cobblestones are referenced in a necklace finished with rock crystals and set pieces of mother-of-pearl while the raindrop-shaped central gemstone may be worn independently. The column’s friso decorated with laurel wreathes has inspired the jewelers to create earrings and an asymmetric necklace. Paris, vu du 26 rings and bracelets baryls, heliodors, citrines, and emerald-cut rock crystals reference the iconic shape of the square and the Boucheron logo.
Having paid homage to the mansion and the square Claire Choisne goes for a walk around Paris. The collection referenced the horses on top of Opera Garnier in a bracelet and a ring made of milk quartz. The iconic Point d’Interrogation asymmetric necklace now references the acanthus leaves from the building’s columns instead of the usual ivy leaves and peacock feathers.
Boucheron maitres meticulously picked the materials for every nostalgic piece of jewelry. Complex miniature compositions were made with titanium, stone cutting, tiny pearls, and gemstones. Gemologists have created a palette: emeralds reference the green plants of the Grand Palais garden, Congolese malachite represents patina and moss, while onyx and enamel feel like marble and cobblestones polished by time.
This year jewelers have been paying attention to mother-of-pearl and tinted enamel. Apart from mother-of-pearl finished pieces of jewelry by Boucheron this summer’s look might be complemented by tender pink hearts by Chopard.
Written by Polina Vorobyova
Translated by Tony Savosin