Perfumer Daniela Andrier turned ancient Chinese legends into three fragrances.
The first Le Gemme collection inspired by gems and minerals was launched in 2014 and contained six fragrances. Since then it has been complemented by Oriental-style aromas dedicated to the minerals common for the Middle East: lazurite, cornelian, and topaz. For the new season the jewelry house designers got inspired by the newest eastbound fashion trends. Earlier on, at the latest Paris Fashion Week Elie Saab presented his vision of a modern Chinese princess. Now we may know the fragrances she would wear.
The luxurious Le Gemme Imperiali collection is centered on nephrite which was highly valued in ancient Asia and in Tang dynasty’s China in particular. Daniela Andrier presented three compositions: Desiria inspired by lilac nephrite, Irina dedicated to the white one, and Splendia which speaks about the gem’s green shade. In order to unite and structure the fragrances Andrier used magnolia oil and artificial ambergris. The mysterious and austere atmosphere of ancient China was conveyed by classical flasks with wavy lines, flowers which correspond the natural colours of the gems, and the golden and black finish. Honouring the tradition the fragrances were given female names.
Key notes: magnolia, rose, and musk
The name comes from the word ‘desire’. A deep and intimate fragrance reminisces a walk through a blooming imperial garden and conveys eternal love and passion through lilac nephrite.
Key notes: magnolia, jasmine, and musk
Irina is a Greek name signifying ‘peace’. The fragrance inspired by pure white nephrite is meant to underline elegance, femininity, and the balanced nature of the owner’s internal and external qualities.
Key notes: magnolia, daffodil, oak moss
Green nephrite is the most beloved gemstone of Chinese monarchs and elite and is the symbol of imperial power. That is why it was named to underline nephrite’s royal grandeur. Flowery notes on an earthy background represent antiquity and nobility.
Written by Polina Vorobyova
Translated by Tony Savosin